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The
Cottage Life
Bunkie
Full plans for a compact
guest cabin, complete
with an adult-sized loft
By WAYNE LENNOX
 The
Cottage Life
Bunkie
By WAYNE LENNOX
INSTRUCTIONS
INTRODUCTION ......................
3
FLOOR .....................................
3
SIDE WALLS .............................
3
REAR WALL .............................
4
FRONT WALL ...........................
4
PORCH .....................................
5
LOFT ........................................
6
RAFTERS AND GABLE ENDS.....
6
ROOF .......................................
7
LOFT LADDER ..........................
7
WINDOWS ..............................
8
DOOR ......................................
8
TRIM AND FINISHING .............
9
Project Editor
Allan Britnell
Project Art Director
Gary Davidson
Plans Illustrations
Len Churchill
PLANS
FLOOR ...................................
10
SIDE WALLS ..........................
11
REAR WALL ...........................
12
FRONT WALL AND PORCH ...
13
ROOF AND LOFT ...................
15
LOFT DETAILS .......................
16
LOFT LADDER .......................
17
Cottage Life
Magazine
Editor
Penny Caldwell
Senior Editor
Martin Zibauer
Art Director
Kim Zagar
You’ll find more great cottage projects
you can build in
Cottage Life
magazine
or at
cottagelife.com
.
Subscription enquiries,
phone 1-800-465-6183 (Canada and U.S.);
Toronto (905) 946-0406.
MATERIALS LISTS
PARTS LIST ...............................
6
SHOPPING LIST .......................
9
Cottage Life Magazine
54 St. Patrick St., Toronto ON M5T 1V1
Copyright ©2007 by Cottage Life. All rights
reserved. Reproduction of any article,
photograph, or artwork, for other
than personal use, in whole or in part,
without written permission of the publisher
is strictly forbidden.
2
One
The Cottage Life Bunkie
of the nicest things
about a cottage is that it becomes a place
for friends and family to gather and share
memories. But the cherished kind of mem-
ory probably doesn’t include the sound of
Uncle Bob’s snoring, or having to step over
half a dozen nieces and nephews on your
way to a midnight snack. With a bunkie,
you can invite overnight guests and still
have some privacy at bedtime.
And the Cottage Life Bunkie not only
makes an ideal guest cabin for cottage over-
flow, it also doubles as a quiet retreat for
those days when even two’s a crowd (see
“Layout Options For Main Floor,” p. 4).
When we designed this structure, we
envisioned it as suitable accommodation
for a couple of adults and three to four kids.
A futon on the main level would work well
for a bed for the big folks, while cots or an
inflatable bed in the loft would be suitable
for the little ones. (Since a queen-size mat-
tress will fit, a couple of adults can also
sleep comfortably in the loft).
The
Ontario Building Code
(
OBC
)
requires a building permit for any structure
with floor space greater than 10 square
metres (108 sq. ft.). This bunkie was
designed with that stricture in mind: At 8'
by 13'6", it is exactly 108 sq. ft. and there-
fore, in most jurisdictions, does not need
that particular documentation. But check
first: Some municipalities require permits
for anything over 100 sq. ft. Cottagers in
those areas could modify the plans – say, by
reducing the length to 12'6" – to fit the
more restrictive rules. Even if a building
permit is not required, you must still check
with your local municipality and comply
with zoning bylaws (such as lot line and
shoreline setbacks).
This is a big project, but not a very com-
plex one. In fact, if you built the
Cottage
Life
outhouse (“The Perfect Privy,” Aug. ’99)
– as many readers have – or the treehouse
(“High Society,” Apr./May ’05), you will
find this to be no more challenging.
the ground – although, since the floor
frame does not, in fact, touch the ground,
you could use ordinary lumber.
1.
With the parts list (p. 6) and Figures 1
and 2 to guide you, cut all pieces for the
floor frame to length (wear a dust mask
when you cut PT lumber) and treat the cut
ends. Lay out the joist locations – 16" on
centre – on the inner rim joists. Note that
the measurement to the centre of the first
joist from the end must take into account
the 3" thickness of the double rim). Leave
a
3
⁄
4
" space between the two laminated
4.
Two-and-a-half sheets of
5
⁄
8
" tongue-
and-groove plywood are required to cover
the floor for the dwelling part of the build-
ing. Square up the floor – diagonals must
be equal – and screw the plywood to the
floor frame.
5.
Level the floor frame, if required.
SIDE WALLS
1.
Cut the side wall pieces to length. Note
that the window headers consist of two
2 x 6s laminated together with a piece of
1
⁄
2
" plywood between as a spacer. Also, the
Designer and builder Wayne Lennox first constructed the Cottage Life Bunkie on site at the
Spring Cottage Life Show. Here, he’s prepping the double rim-joist floor framing.
bunkie joists that sit at the 10' mark and
the first deck joist. This gap allows rain and
melt-water to drain between the boards.
2.
Nail or screw the inner frame together.
(The 3
1
⁄
2
" deck screws in the hardware list
[p. 9] are needed only if you are screwing the
frame together.) Remember to keep joist
crowns up; the crown is the convex edge of
a board when viewed from the end. Nail or
screw the outer rim joists to the inner frame.
3.
Cut bridging pieces to length and install
between floor joists.
Tip:
When you measure for the bridging,
take your measurements between the joists
where they are secured to the rim, not in
the middle. After installing two or three
bridging pieces, check the cumulative mea-
surement of bridging and joists and com-
pare with the measure at the rim joist to be
sure you’re not bending the joists out of
line. Adjust the next piece you install to
compensate, if needed.
6 x 6 by 43
1
⁄
2
" side headers are mitred 45°
at the porch end and notched at the other
end (Figures 14 and 16). Drill two
1
⁄
2
"
holes – preferably with a Forstner bit – in
the face of each side header, as in Figure 14.
Drill clearance holes. Cut eight
1
⁄
2
" plugs
and put them aside for now. (A plug cutter
is an inexpensive accessory available at any
lumber or hardware store. Use it to make
your own matching plugs from castoffs. Of
course, there are also commercially avail-
able plastic plugs.)
2.
Lay out the stud locations on the bottom
and top plates as in Figure 3 (make sure
that your layout is consistent with the
rough opening for your windows). Note
also that the centres are not all 16". When
siding, start from the porch end. The edge
of the second 4 x 8 sheet will line up with
the middle of a stud marked with an X. The
remaining piece is 2' wide (a 4 x 8 sheet
ripped in half provides the 2' pieces).
FLOOR
Footings (six in all) will need to be in place
before construction can begin.
I am partial to a double rim joist at the
base of structures like this because of its
greater strength, especially at interlocking
corners. And I like pressure-treated (PT)
lumber for any part of a structure close to
3
The Cottage Life Bunkie
3.
Nail or screw the wall frame together on
the ground, adding the double top plate last
(lay out the location of the rafters on the
double top plate first, starting from the porch
end). Do not add the 6 x 6 side headers yet.
4.
Cut the 2 x 4 blocking to length and nail
between the studs.
5.
We selected Canexel 4 x 8 pre-finished
panels for this project for a number of rea-
sons: sub-sheathing is unnecessary, siding
time is reduced, and they look good. On
the downside, there is a limited colour
selection and the finish is only under war-
ranty for five years, so repainting could be
necessary after that. Cut five sheets to a
length of 93
1
⁄
2
" (good-side down to avoid
chipping on that side). Rip one piece in
half, lengthways.
6.
Lay the sheets on the wall so that the
edges meet the top plate. Transfer the loca-
tion of the rafters on the edges of the
sheathing. Remove the siding and cut 1
1
⁄
2
"
by 5
3
⁄
4
" notches where marked (see Figure
14). The siding panels will sit proud of the
top plate. These notches allow the rafters
to sit tight against the plates and also let
the siding butt against the bottom of the
roof boards thereby sealing the building
from drafts. You can be a little generous
with the cuts as small gaps can be filled
with caulking.
7.
Lay the siding pieces back on the walls,
making sure that the bottom edges are 3"
below the bottom plates (this lip can later be
nailed to the rim joist). Square up the frame
and nail the siding to the wall using 2" galva-
nized ardox nails, spaced about 8" apart.
You’ll need a couple of helpers to lift the walls in place. Note the notches cut into the top of
the siding panels. These allow the bird's mouth rafters to fit snugly againsts the top plate.
8.
Find two helpers. Stand each wall up in
turn, being careful not to damage the bot-
tom edge of the panels. Line up the bottom
plates with the floor’s edges. Screw or nail
the bottom plates to the floor.
Tip:
Don’t drive the nails home yet in case
you need to move the wall. Nail temporary
braces from the end studs to the rim joist.
The walls should tip out slightly at the top.
9.
Add a 1 x 3 temporary, vertical brace at
the porch end (see photo, p. 5), from the
rim joist to the end of each top plate. Insert
the 6 x 6 side headers into the space created
when you framed the side walls. Screw to
the top plates and to the 2 x 4 studs. This is
also a helper-assisted procedure!
10.
Drill a 1"-dia. by 2"-deep hole down
through the top plate and into the side
header where indicated in Figure 16. Drill a
5
⁄
16
" clearance hole all the way through.
11.
If you have a reciprocating saw, cut out
the window openings from the inside. If
you only have a jig saw, drill holes through
the paneling at each corner, go outside,
draw lines between the outside radii of the
holes, and follow the lines to cut out the
window openings.
12.
Do not add the 6 x 6 posts yet.
REAR WALL
1.
Cut all the pieces and assemble the rear
wall as shown in Figures 8 and 9. Since
there are no window openings, cladding is
simply a matter of nailing the two 4' by 89"
panels to the assembled wall. Make sure
that the top edges of the panels are lined up
with the bottom edge of the top plate, i.e.,
between the two plates.
2.
With a helper, lift the rear wall assembly
into place. Nail or screw the bottom plate to
the floor. Nail or screw the corners together.
Nail the 3
1
⁄
2
" overhangs to the side wall end
studs. Nail the bottom edge of each panel
to the rim joists.
Layout options for main floor
CLUB
CHAIR
BUILTIN
BENCH
TALL
BOOKSHELF
EASEL
THROW
CUSHIONS
CAFÏ
TABLE
DAYBED
LOW
BOOKSHELF
STORAGE
LOW
BOOKSHELF
STORAGE
DESK
SIDETABLE
DROP
DOWN
TABLE
FRONT WALL
1.
Cut all front wall pieces to length (see
Figure 10). The header over the window
consists of two pieces of 2 x 4 laminated
together. Since the front wall is not a load-
bearing wall, the header over the door
PORCH
PORCH
PORCH
Guest cabin
Writer’s retreat
Kids’ space
4
The Cottage Life Bunkie
consists of a single 2 x 4 on the flat to pro-
vide the correct dimension for the entrance
door rough opening.
2.
Nail or screw the frame together. Note
that the piece in the bottom plate, where
the door is located, will be removed after
the assembled wall is in place.
3.
Trim two sheets of siding to 91".
4.
Lay one panel on the wall over the door
opening, noting that the top edge should
be flush to the top of the double top plate,
side wall end studs. (If the floor is level and
the walls are square then, when assembled,
the walls should be plumb.)
8.
Before you can cover the porch ceiling,
you will need to scab a 2 x 4 nailer to the
top of the front wall double top plate to act
as a nailing edge (see Figure 11). It should
extend about halfway over the leading edge
of the double top plate.
9.
With all four walls in place, drive the bot-
tom plate nails home, cut out the openings
at both ends. (Mitring the 6 x 6 is a bit of
challenge if you do not own a 12" com-
pound sliding mitre saw: Mark your cut
line, then take passes with a circular saw
from either side. There will likely still be a
sliver of wood in the middle that you’ll
need to clear with a handsaw.) Drill two
1
⁄
2
" holes,
3
⁄
4
" deep in the end faces, as in
Figure 14.
3.
Stand the end posts in place. Lag the
6 x 6 by 43
1
⁄
2
" side headers to the tops of
the posts with the 8" lag bolts. Plumb the
posts and toenail to the floor, keeping the
nails or screws below the line of the trim
(about 2"). For added strength, you can
also drive a few screws up into the post end
from the underside of the deck boards
(though it’s a little tricky, considering that
the piers may be in the way!)
4.
Lift the 6 x 6 by 8' front header into
place. Attach it to the side headers with
outdoor glue and the #12 x 3
1
⁄
2
" screws.
Plug the holes (glue the plugs in place and
trim them after the glue dries).
5.
Add the 2 x 6 top plate and screw or nail
it down to the front header. Drill a 1" hole
about 2" deep down through the 2 x 6 into
the top of each end of the 8' header . Drill a
5
⁄
16
" clearance hole as in Figure 16. Lag the
8' header to the end posts. Also screw the
side wall 2 x 4 top plate to the header using
#8 x 3" screws with clearance holes to min-
imize splitting.
6.
Screw or nail the 2 x 4 nailing edge to
the 2 x 6, as in Figure 11.
7.
According to the
OBC
, a deck does not
need a railing if it’s less than 2' above grade.
For decks higher than that, the railing must
be no less than 35" high. If the deck is higher
than 5'11" above grade, then the railing
must be 42" high. If you are installing the
optional railing assemblies, start by notching
the newel posts, as in Figure 15. Determine
where the newel posts will be situated and
mark 1
3
⁄
4
" by 3
1
⁄
2
" rectangles on the deck
boards. Remove the marked boards and cut
out the rectangles with a jigsaw. Replace the
boards, fit the newel posts into the holes,
and clamp in place. Make sure that, once
installed, the railing assembly will fit tightly
against the newel and corner posts. Drill two
3
⁄
8
" holes through the rim joists and each
newel post. Insert the
3
⁄
8
" x 6" carriage bolts,
add the washers and nuts, and tighten.
8.
Cut pickets to length (36" or 38", see
below) and router all four edges with a
The bunkie loft extends out over the porch. For an extra 3
1
⁄
2
' of floorspace on the ground level
you could modify the plans, eliminating the porch and moving the front wall forward
and the left side should be 3
1
⁄
2
" past the
end stud (this lip will be nailed to the side-
wall end stud). Square everything up and
tack the sheet in place. Have a helper lift
the upper end of the wall up off the floor,
high enough so that you can trace the
opening for the door. Lay the wall back
down, remove the sheet and cut out the
opening for the door. While you’re at it, cut
out notches for the 6 x 6 side header and
for the rim joists (include the thickness of
the plywood floor in this calculation).
5.
Lay the panel back down and nail it to
the frame.
6.
Lay the other sheet on the frame and nail
it down.
7.
Remove the two braces from the side
walls and, with a helper, lift the front wall
into place. Nail or screw the bottom plate
to the floor. Nail or screw the corners
together. Nail the 3
1
⁄
2
" overhangs to the
for the front window and door, and then
cut out the sill space for the door opening.
PORCH
I chose cedar for the front porch – despite
its rather steep cost – chiefly because it is
hard to find 6 x 6 pine (my preferred mate-
rial). PT is a lot cheaper but far less attrac-
tive than cedar, unless painted or stained.
1.
Cut the
5
⁄
4
x 6 deck boards to length –
allowing for 1" of overhang at the front – and
nail or screw to the joists. A clearance hole
may be needed at the board ends to prevent
splitting. Begin in the centre and work your
way out evenly to both sides, leaving a
3
⁄
8
"
gap between the boards. The last two boards
may have to be ripped – make sure to leave
a 1" overhang as well. If you were careful,
each end board should be the same width.
2.
Cut the two 6 x 6 porch posts and the
front header to length; the header is mitred
5
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