Marynarka 1

Marynarka 1, nauka, zdrowie, Wykroje męskie

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The Stinchcomb
By: burdastyle
Every man needs at least one beautiful jacket in his wardrobe, and we finally have the pattern for you! This
classic, elegant cut is ready for fall nights and holiday events. Of course, making your own suit jacket is a
chance to personalize: perhaps try playing with a fun lining on the inside. We can’t wait to see what you do.
Materials
Wool suiting, silk lining, buttons, interfacing, shoulder pads, we also used horsehair in the lapels and collar.
Step 1
The Stinchcomb
1
JACKET
1 Front piece 2x
2 Back piece 2x
3 Side piece 2x
4 Upper sleeves 2x
5 Undersleeves 2x
6 Top collar 1x
7 Under collar 1x
8 Collar stand 2x
9 Front facing 2x
10 Back facing 1x
11 Pocket flap 1x
12 Pocket pouch 1x
13 Pocket welt 4x
14 Pocket pouch 2x
15 Flap 4x
Step 2
The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:
The patterns are printed out on 64 sheets with a thin frame. Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the
sheets so that they fit together (see additional page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on
the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower sheet and then tape the frame
lines together precisely.
Step 3
ADJUST PATTERN SIZES
Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the
bust size, trousers and skirts according to the hip width. Change the pattern to fit your measurements if they
Step 1
2
deviate from the Burda-size chart.
Cut out the pattern according to your size.
Refer to our â’Adjust patterns for mixed sizesâ’ technique
Sizes 36-50 (EU 46-60)
The top buttonhole on the front piece is marked for sizes 34-44 (EU 44-54). For all other sizes, mark the
button hole in the same space to the fold line of the lapel as for sizes 34-44 (EU 44-54). Position the button
hole 2mm from the center front.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5â’ 6â’ (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the
pattern pieces along the lines marked “lengthen or shorten here”. This way the proper fit is maintained.
Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line to the
same degree.
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines
To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Blend the side edges.
Step 4
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (â’ â’ â’ â’) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being the center of the pattern piece, but never a cut
edge or seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the center line. Pattern pieces that
are outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting
diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces
should be placed on the fabric.
Step 3
3
The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric.
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the
right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned
to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown
extending over the fold of the fabric in the cutting
diagram should be cut last from a single layer of fabric.
Step 5
SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average:
1 _â’ (4 cm) for the hemline, 5/8â’ (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA copying paper,
transfer the lines and signs of the pattern onto the left fabric side. Instructions can be found in the packaging.
SEWING
While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are facing.
Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right side of the fabric using basting stitches.
INTERFACING
Press the interfacing piece according to the cutting diagram onto the wrong side of the fabric.
LINING
Cut the lining according to the pattern pieces 4,5, 14 and 16 to 21. See the cutting diagrams.
Step 6
JACKET
Front piece
Cut the front pieces to the front dart line along the cutting lines (a). Stitch the darts and press towards the
center front (b). Position the edges together and stitch using herringbone stitch ©.
Stitch the front princess seams (seam 1). Press allowances apart.
Step 4
4
Step 7
Welt pockets with flaps
The end of the front pocket and the welt seam line, both marked on piece 1, are to be considered for size 34.
For sizes 36-50, mark the end of the front pocket according to the position of the dart of relevant size.
Pin the welt strips onto the front piece, along both sides of the cut line. Then stitch _â’ (0.7 cm) wide.
Secure seam ends. Cut the front piece between the stitch lines, cut the ends of the pockets at an angle into
triangles (d). Do no cut into the welt (e). Fold the welt over the seam line and press.
Turn the welt to the inside. From the right side of the fabric, pin the welt on both sides in a way that they are
equally wide (f). At the end of the cutting line, fold the triangles to the inside. Then, stitch the welt (g).
Pin the pocket pouch, made of lining, onto the left front piece so that the top edge is positioned above the
seam line of the bottom welt. On the right fabric side, stitch along the seam line of the bottom piping; thereby
catching the pocket pouch. Turn the pocket pouch downwards and press (h).
Step 8
FLAP
Right sides facing, pin together two pocket flaps, one with interfacing and one without. Stitch the side and
bottom edges. Trim allowances. Turn the flaps and pin the edges, then press. Pin the open edge together.
From the right side of the fabric, move the flap under the top welt, then pin (a).
From the wrong side of the fabric, pin the pocket pouch (piece 14) above the seam line of the top welt. From
the right fabric side, topstitch along the seam line of the top welt, thereby catching the pocket pouch and flap
(b).
Position the pocket pouches together, trim and stitch together, thereby stitching over the triangles ©.
FLAP POCKET / TOP LEFT FRONT PIECE
For sizes 46-50 (EU 56-60) mark the pocket lines completely as marked for sizes 34-44 (EU 44-54). Fold the
flap along the fold line, right sides facing. Stitch the short sides. Trim allowances. Cut the corners at an
angle. Turn the flap. Pin the edges and press. Pin the open edges together. Trim the allowances of the open
Step 7
5
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